When Italy married India

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“You can either frustrate a woman by making her aware of all her flaws or you can make her feel absolutely beautiful, I choose latter as designer,” remarks Rosenda Meer. “Size is an aberration; we have massified all of world’s women in sizes of 2, 4, 16... everybody is a different shape. “

“High Heels are like Burkhas for the modern day woman. Both are societal obligations that women wore over themselves. Its unnecessary. Some may find a woman in high heels very attractive but I just find them utterly uncomfortable and even insecure sometimes. It’s attractive when you are comfortable, when you laugh, when you look great in what you wear. “

“I hate fashion. Fashion is about cycles, about quick disposal. Works of art and luxury need time to conceive and last beyond a lifetime. This is exactly what India is good at. It saddens me to see that most Indian designers are taking the western route to fashion instead of learning from the Japanese. They embraced their heritage and showcased a new dimension to the world.”

Rosenda is an Italian origin and Parisian boutique owner who found love and her life’s objective in India. She runs a label Le Cashmirian on Paris’s Rue de Tournen, housing products handcrafted in India. Her love affair with India has lasted over 2 decades, blame it on her chance meeting with her charming Srinagar born husband or the love of Indian crafts. Rosenda is a highly celebrated designer back home for her love for refined, unadulterated and innovative luxury.

“Fab India is fantastic start for Indian retail but how long can people wear those shapeless clothes. We need to take the step further and add more details, more draping to the gorgeous Indian textiles to make the world sit up and take notice.” Rosenda is also the author of the book, Memoirs – A Textile Journey to India.

“India and Italy have similar culture. We’re both blessed with deep cultural roots, great food and an undying love for our Ma’s. I would hate for India to lose its crafts and textile treasure to cheap modern fabrics like Italy did. Italy once had the nicest knitted laces and fabrics in all of world, look how we lost it all. Its extremely rare to sight those fabrics anymore. If all of Indian youth were to start patronizing Zara and Forever21, what will happen to the Benarasi Silks and Orrisa Ikats?”

Rosenda is also sick of Pop India movement – the loud kitschy patterns and bright Fuschia colors. “For me, India is Ochre. Its the colour of mother earth itself. India has soul to offer. Let the west offer the arrogance and disposability, India can offer timelessness and soulfulness. I love the Abraham and Thakore collections. They make India very proud.”

I met Rosenda in Auroville on our way to the Matri Mandir for mediation. Its amazing how she looks so Indian and yet like a foreigner. She tells me she worked very hard to retain her Italian roots and yet looking appropriate in India.

Isn’t it amazing to see one’s country from foreign eyes every once in a while.

Happy Valentines Day!



Much Love,

Style Quickie : Uma Haimavati

How often do u hear fashion and social responsibility used in the same sentence. Not very often, I’m assuming. Well then its about time you were acquainted with Upasana, a design studio founded in 1997 by Uma Haimavati in Auroville, Tamil Nadu. Upasana was created with an idea of bringing alive the traditional Indian textiles to translate into a tool of strong cultural communication. Every Indian state possesses its unique personality expressed through its specific textiles and Upasana has emerged as an inspiring design house that’s set out to bring together this diverse range under one roof, with a global sensibility.

The minute you enter the Upasana campus, you realise that its atmosphere itself is almost catalytic to generate creativity. With a huge windchime hanging by a lush tree and a lotus pond right in middle of the pebble lined garden, Upasana is the antidote to the mass-production factories around the world.

Uma, the founder and master-mind behind this revolutionary design studio, invites me to join her for a hot cup of green tea to discuss her design sensibilities, her plans for the studio and the present fashion scenario. While it was rather pleasant to sit with some of her family members, colleagues and friends on the chatai under a huge shady tree, what surprised me most was the sudden appearance of a peacock. Uma tells me that the gorgeous bird is part of the Upasana family and visits often to meet and greet and loves being fed some freshly baked auroville cookies.

While the distraction was rather fortunate, I focus back on our cheerful, determined lady in question and begin the rapid fire round of questions.

How would you define your personal style?

I think one thing that defines my style is my fascination with the color white. I can wear just about anything as long as its in white.

The pendant around my neck is the symbol of Auroville – the lotus flower motif. I always wear it.

How did Upasana happen?

I visited Auroville 14 years back for a short 2week exploration trip and ended up staying back with the inception of Upasana. Auroville is just the kind of place that encourages you to take up your passion and make a career out of it. One of our initial successes came in the form of Tsunamika (A waste-fabric doll named Tsunamika which was widely sold around the country to collect funds for Tsunami Relief) After that, there was no looking back.

Who are the people behind Upasana?

Its a huge team of young, inspired and creative people. Upasana has become a platform where students and volunteers from different parts of India and abroad come to learn and contribute to ongoing projects. They learn through real life engagements and creative exploration of Socially Responsible Design. At any point of time, we have a long list of young designers waiting to intern with Upasana. We really encourage this.

What is the work culture at Upasana?

Its very friendly but focussed. We are a family of like-minded, mixed-cultural people dedicated to Socially responsible design by intention. We give a very customised and unique design brief to every designer. It s based on their choice of field of work and their individual capabilities. There are no restrictions on creative thought in this studio.

What is Upasana’s USP?

In Upasana, the scope of design has been enlarged to be integral so that it touches all the facets of a product’s life-cycle - those who design and produce it, those who use it, the larger socio-cultural context and the environment.



What projects besides Tsunamika have you taken up?

We have successfully started 5 projects in 5 years. Tsunamika being our first project gave us the right launch, Another project we’ve been doing over last few years is with Benaras Weavers, An organic cotton project called ‘Kapas’, and the most recent being Small Steps. Small Steps is envisioned to be the full stop to plastic bags. We are making nearly 10 million fabric bags using waste fabric and employing village ladies. We also plenty of other



Does Upasana follow fashion trends?

We don’t make a conscious effort to follow any trends but intuitively we do follow market trends. Between innovation and social responsibility, style just blossoms on its own at Upasana.


If you wish to contribute to the socially conscious design process at Upasana, do contact me to put you in touch with Uma.

Much Love,

Bonjour Pondy!

Also catch this post on Vogue India website here

The famous French colony of 18th century, Pondicherry’s charms are famous far and wide. The relaxed lifestyle, the French eateries and colonial architectural influence are some of the popular attractions. What I didn’t know was that Pondicherry is also becoming one of the fastest growing markets for eco-friendly and natural products. Blame it on its proximity to Auroville or the constant foreign tourist rush, the city’s shops are flooded with hand-made products.

Being hosted by my long time friend, Bidisha Samantray, I was bound to see the places that even lonely planet forgets to mention. So, reporting from a secluded beach in Auroville, I’m writing this post sitting outside my hut with only the sounds of a roaring ocean and some chirping of the birds.

My shopping excursion had to start with Living Art, the freshest store opened in the white town on the street Rue du Bazar Saint Laurant. Housing some of the most beautifully crafted products, providing employment to several villages across Orissa, Rajasthan and Gujarat, Bidisha’s store is full of charming little things from apparel to home furnishings to antiques and furniture. Best thing about this store is its selection of merchandise and its apt pricing. Its a must visit for its gorgeous appliqué bags, kaftan tops and innovative home furnishings.

The second Destination was Via Pondicherry, which was particularly nice for its selection of leather bags and accessories.

Next, Bidisha took me to the magical La Maison Rose, a colonial bunglow converted to a shopping place and restaurant.

This Bunglow houses three beautiful shops Oh la la!, Domus and Amethyst. I loved Oh La La! for its simplicity of design. The crinoline skirt with a wired hem is perfect a statement piece or a petticoat for gorgeous shaping.

Giving high street a break, Bidisha took me street shopping to her favourite roadside vendor, Opposite the Post Office, this is a treasure trove for all export brands that Indians are devoid of otherwise. You would be surprised to find some incredible chic pieces here!

My final stop, before leaving to Auroville was the fisherman market which is a great place for the plastic weave ‘lunch box’ bags and traditional imitation jewellery and other knick-knacks. Do not miss this market. Its a great place for photography too. (Though I forgot mine in all the excitement)

Also, when in Pondy do not miss having cocktails at the terrace top restaurant Qualithe, a rather shady place, popular hangout for the young tourists and savvy locals. Satsanga, a fine dining restaurant is another recommendation for brilliant French food.

While you’re walking down the promenade and past the beautiful Indo-French architectural wonders, you come to realise that this city is as charming as the decadent rosebud carefully nestled in middle of that old romantic novel. So totally classic and yet so endearing and special. A trip I’ll never forget.

 
Much Love,